Located in the northeastern province of Ubon Ratchathani, Pha Taem National Park plays host to the kingdom's most ancient murals, which are thought to date back to prehistoric times. The park covers three districts of Ubon Ratchathani – Khong Chiam, Si Mueng Mai and Pho Sai. Setting out from the center of the province on Route 2222, we headed east by car to Khong Chiam, which is located about 80 kilometers away. Before turning left onto Route 2112, I noticed the Mekong River up ahead, which separates Thailand from the Lao People's Democratic Republic (Lao PDR). We continued along this road for about 15 km alongside the river before taking a right turn up to Pha Taem. This is where the park's main office is located, as well as the trail that leads up to the murals.
A Stunning Spectacle
Standing 300 meters above sea level, Pha Taem is an outstanding cliff that provides stunning views of the Mekong and the surrounding mountainous terrain. Pha is the Thai word for cliff, while Taem means painting in the local northeastern dialect.
“The cliff was created by a sandstone formation,” Phisit Wongklom, an official from the Fine Arts Department in Ubon Ratchathani, helpfully explained. “According to geological evidence, this area was underwater [an ocean] about 140 million years ago.”
Phisit also told us that the Mekong was likely created by an earthquake, or a similar major shift in the earth's crust about 30 million years ago.
The ancient paintings we got the chance to experience at close hand are thought to date back about 3,000-4,000 years ago. There are over 300 individual images located at Pha Taem and three other cliffs nearby – Pha Kham, Pha Mhon and Pha Mhon Noi.
A 514-meter-long trail led us down from the top of the cliff to the site of the paintings below.
While you're making your way down, you'll notice how beautiful the cliff's various layers of rock appear up close.
Reflections of The Past
Unfortunately, the paintings at the first site we visited have now faded due to careless locals and tourists, who are often tempted to touch them with their fingers and hands. In light of this fact, we didn't hang around and walked for another 300 meters or so to the second group of paintings. Here we got to see pictures of an elephant, geometric shapes, images of what appear to be human hands, along with a tum (a form of fish trap that is used widely in the region).
The paintings fit within five categories, according to Phisit – those related to animals, geometric forms, humans, human hands and fishery-related images. “There's no real evidence to suggest exactly who created these paintings,” Phisit said.
Quite a Hike
It should be noted that the third site is located 865 meters away from where we set off, while the fourth site is sited another 850 meters away, so if you would like to follow the whole trek, you should have a reasonable level of fitness.
If you decide that you are indeed up to the task, I can confirm that the view from the fourth site is pretty amazing as you'll see the Mekong River below and some scenic Lao territory straight ahead.
Stopover OptionIf you really wish to explore the area in greater depth, you might want to consider an overnight stay within the park. The park has two houses, which can be rented for 1,200 baht (US$41) per night. Each residence can accommodate up to six guests.
A stopover will make it easier for you to get up early in the morning and experience a stunning sunrise, while you shouldn't miss the chance to try some fish from the Mekong, which is sold in the park's canteen.
There are several other interesting attractions located within the park's boundaries worth visiting, such as Sao Chaliang (see photo, left). Chaliang derives from the word Saliang, which means 'stone tower' in the local dialect and these structures are shaped like huge mushrooms.
Alternatively, you may wish to visit some of the park's nam tok ('waterfalls'). The most striking ones are Nam Tok Saeng Chan (also known as Nam Tok Ru [see photo, below]), where a stream of water passes through a small hole before landing in the pool below. It's said that when the sun shines through the hole around noon, the water appears to 'shine like the moon' (saeng chan).
For further information about Pha Taem National Park, call Tel: +66 (0)4 524 6332.
Transport Connections:
Car: From Bangkok, take Highway 1 (Phahol Yothin Road) and head for Saraburi. Switch to Highway 2 (Mittraphap Road) when the opportunity arises, which will take you through to Nakhon Ratchasima. Switch from Highway 2 to Highway 226, which will lead you to Ubon Ratchathani via the provinces fo Buri Ram, Surin and Si Sa Ket.
Train: Seven trains depart Bangkok's central Hualamphong Station daily for Ubon Ratchathani. For further information, contact Tel: +66 (0)2 220 4444, or 1690 (Thailand only).
Bus: Buses depart regularly for Ubon Ratchathani daily from Bangkok's Northern Bus Terminal (Morchit 2). For further information on departure times, call Tel: +66 (0)2 936 2852-66.
Air: Thai Airways operates a daily flight from Bangkok to Ubon Ratchathani. Visit http://www.thaiair.com to check on flight times
source: Tannetwork.tv
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