Hanging out with the world's tiniest monkeys in the tourist-free Philippines

By WENDY GOMERSALL

Fluffy friend: Wendy Gomersall meets a sleepy tarsier


The 'smallest monkey in the world' is surprisingly easy to spot, squatting alone in the forests of Bohol, South east Asia. The tarsier's huge eyes give it away, for a start.

Resembling one of those woollen pompom animals that children make at school, this extraordinary mini-creature's enormous hazelnut-coloured eyes fill practically the whole width of his dinky face, while together his head and body measure a mere 4 to 6in. He is indeed exceedingly titchy.

During the day, this nocturnal animal clings for dear life to a narrow branch with strange, twig-like fingers and long, long tail. If you approach it, even with the friendliest of intentions, those enormous glassy eyes suddenly swell and bulge, just like Puss in the Shrek films, until you worry they're going to ping right out of their sockets.

Apparently - and this is the saddest thing I've ever heard - if they get stressed, for example by being kept in captivity in a small enclosure, they commit suicide by smashing their heads against anything hard and handy.

Before I knew this, I headed off to the Philippines hoping to be able to cradle one of these cutiepies in the palm of my hand - the internet has plenty of footage of tourists doing just that. But I soon changed my mind.

Bohol is one of the most famous places to see tarsiers in the Philippines. It is a small island just off the larger island of Cebu, from where you can catch a ferry.

Otherwise you can fly to Bohol's Tagbilaran airport. Panglao, an island off Bohol's southern tip where I stayed, is reached by road bridge.

It's fair to say that Bohol does not yet have a fully developed tourist industry, but this raw, uncommercialised quality is attracting more intrepid travellers.

There are good things to see, not least the region's famous Chocolate hills. The 1,268 perfectly symmetrical hills look like the eggs of some giant bird. They are covered in grass - not much else grows on them because of poor soil - which turns brown in the dry season, making them resemble chocolate bon bons - hence the name. Local legend has it that they are the tears of a lovesick giant.

For the best view, you can climb a normal hill where there's a cafe and a few stalls selling souvenirs - everything from Tshirts to keyrings to mugs featuring tarsiers.


Infinite luxury: The five-star Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa attracts local celebrities and many foreign visitors


You'll learn about the history of the Philippines and colonial influences on a visit to the stone church of Baclayon, which is the oldest in the country, dating from the late 1500s. You will also find out that about 80 per cent of the population is Catholic.

Elsewhere, there's a butterfly farm where you can see these beautiful insects up close, a seashell museum that houses a massive collection and a cave full of stalactites and birds.

The unsophisticated nature of some of the tourist attractions in Bohol makes them all the more charming: lunch on board a Loboc river cruise takes you past small settlements where the village children, looking so smart in colourful little uniforms, dance and sing on waterside pontoons in return for donations. Bohol is the singing capital of the Philippines, and I did hear some wonderful voices.

But while tourist attractions in this undeveloped part of the Philippines may be described as basic, the Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa comes as a very pleasant surprise.

It is a gem of a retreat, hidden away in a private beachside spot. Eskaya is gorgeous, a little Heaven on Earth.

Locals derided owner Richard Lim when he opened his luxury resort - he would never find guests prepared to pay five-star prices, they said. But Eskaya has become the place to stay for Filipino celebrities and discerning foreign guests.

The name Eskaya refers to the only known indigenous people of Bohol. The resort, opened last year and a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World, has 15 thatched villas, most with their own pool, huge bed, whirlpool bath big enough for two and every touch of luxury you could want. The resort has a dive shop - Bohol's diving spots, including Balicasag and Pamilacan, are reputedly among the best in the world


Stunning symmetry: Bohol's Chocolate Hills - 'like the eggs of some giant bird' - in the wet season


There's also an amazing infinity pool with swim-up bar, and a fabulous spa called Handuraw which offers lovely treatments such as a foot massage with herbal clay and bamboo sticks to stimulate the soles. The menu includes pamperings for two - making this place the perfect honeymoon destination. There are lots of private corners and secluded pergolas for romantic dinners.

The Lantawan restaurant serves delicious food and Filipino cuisine is packed with flavour. There's lechon de leche - roasted suckling pig - tasty dried fish and squid.

The national dish is adobo, a meal of chicken or pork (or both) simmered in soy sauce, vinegar, black pepper and a ton of garlic. I hoped it wouldn't put the teeny monkeys off - surely they'd smell me coming a mile off.

The Philippine tarsier is not, in fact, a monkey at all but a mammal akin to a lemur or bush baby. However-it is a primate - and one of the smallest in the world.

They are thought to have evolved 45 million years ago, and are highly endangered today. The unwelcome attention of feral cats and loss of habitat are to blame. Once found in Asia, Europe, North America and possibly Africa, today the tarsier is confined to a few islands in South East Asia.

As well as big eyes, it has big ears for hearing the insects, birds, snakes and lizards it feeds on. It also has long hind limbs and its feet have extremely elongated tarsus bones, hence his name.

After dark, it can certainly shake a leg and can jump more than 40 times its own body length. I saw various tarsier tourist traps at the roadside with a few tatty captive specimens. Perhaps they were just old - and at least they weren't smashing their heads against the walls.

But it's better to see them at the Tarsier Sanctuary near Corella, which is operated by the Tarsier Foundation, an organisation dedicated to protecting what's left of the native population.

You can accompany a guide into the cat-proof reserve to see happy tarsiers clinging to the trees. They're a whole lot fluffier than the roadside exhibits, it has to be said. and I made do with cuddling a soft-toy tarsier rather than handling the real thing.

Travel Facts
Audley Travel offers a seven-night stay on a B&B basis at the Eskaya Beach Resort & Spa (www.eskayabeach.com), Panglao Island, from £1,845 per person, including international and domestic flights and private transfers. Call 01993 838100 and www.audleytravel.com.

source: dailymail